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Attention Required! | Cloudflare
- Article author: all3dp.com
- Reviews from users: 325
Ratings - Top rated: 3.5
- Lowest rated: 1
- Summary of article content: Articles about Attention Required! | Cloudflare See how your Ender 3 really performs! Try one of these Creality Ender 3 (V2/Pro) test print files today to tune your printer’s settings! …
- Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for Attention Required! | Cloudflare See how your Ender 3 really performs! Try one of these Creality Ender 3 (V2/Pro) test print files today to tune your printer’s settings!
- Table of Contents:
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Ender 3 V2 – The Easiest Guide to Leveling and Test-Printing – Howchoo
- Article author: howchoo.com
- Reviews from users: 27272 Ratings
- Top rated: 3.7
- Lowest rated: 1
- Summary of article content: Articles about Ender 3 V2 – The Easiest Guide to Leveling and Test-Printing – Howchoo Updating …
- Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for Ender 3 V2 – The Easiest Guide to Leveling and Test-Printing – Howchoo Updating If you’re new to the Ender 3 V2, learning to level the bed can be a bit of a chore. Not anymore! With this guide level the bed and test print easily.
- Table of Contents:
leveling the ender 3 V2
Ender 3 V2 calibration testing
Prepare to calibrate your Ender 3 V2
Test your Ender 3 V2 for movement
Level the print bed on the Ender 3 V2
Preheat your nozzle for PLA
Prepare your PLA for your Ender 3 V2 print test
Hang your PLA on the Ender 3 V2
Feed in your PLA to the Ender 3 V2
Run the bed levelling test print for your Ender 3 V2
Print the test cube to complete your Ender 3 V2 set-up
Congratulations! Your Ender 3 V2 is ready to go
Creality Ender-3 V2 Review | PCMag
- Article author: www.pcmag.com
- Reviews from users: 9958 Ratings
- Top rated: 4.7
- Lowest rated: 1
- Summary of article content: Articles about Creality Ender-3 V2 Review | PCMag The Creality Ender-3 V2 sells at a competitive price, has a reasonably large build area, and its overall print quality proved a little above par … …
- Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for Creality Ender-3 V2 Review | PCMag The Creality Ender-3 V2 sells at a competitive price, has a reasonably large build area, and its overall print quality proved a little above par … Hands-on tweaking defines Creality’s budget-price Ender-3 V2, an open-frame 3D printer that you build from a kit. It produces generally above-par prints, but its print bed can be tricky to keep leveled.
- Table of Contents:
Creality Ender-3 V2 Specs
A Classic Open-Frame 3D Printer
Setting Up the Ender-3 V2 Assembly Required
A Look at the LCD Panel
Adventures in Bed Leveling
The Ender-3 V2’s Filament Scheme
The Ender-3 V2 Software A Choice of Slicers
Solid Print Quality With Some Bumps
A Fun (But Perhaps Frustrating) Challenge for 3D Printing Newbies
Honest Objective Lab-Tested Reviews
Bed Level Test for Ender 3 V2 by bantzt – Thingiverse
- Article author: www.thingiverse.com
- Reviews from users: 22238 Ratings
- Top rated: 3.8
- Lowest rated: 1
- Summary of article content: Articles about Bed Level Test for Ender 3 V2 by bantzt – Thingiverse Download files and build them with your 3D printer, laser cutter, or CNC. Thingiverse is a universe of things. …
- Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for Bed Level Test for Ender 3 V2 by bantzt – Thingiverse Download files and build them with your 3D printer, laser cutter, or CNC. Thingiverse is a universe of things. things, digital design, physical objects, rapid prototyping, 3D objects, 3D printing, reprap, fabrication, laser cutter, laser, thingaverse, thingyverseDownload files and build them with your 3D printer, laser cutter, or CNC. Thingiverse is a universe of things.
- Table of Contents:
Creality Ender 3 V2 Official Review: Best 3D Printer Under $300
- Article author: www.noveltymaker.com
- Reviews from users: 17729 Ratings
- Top rated: 3.8
- Lowest rated: 1
- Summary of article content: Articles about Creality Ender 3 V2 Official Review: Best 3D Printer Under $300 Creality Ender 3 V2 3D Printer Complete Detailed Review: Is It Worth or Not? … To put the Ender 3 V2 through its paces, I printed a few test pieces. …
- Most searched keywords: Whether you are looking for Creality Ender 3 V2 Official Review: Best 3D Printer Under $300 Creality Ender 3 V2 3D Printer Complete Detailed Review: Is It Worth or Not? … To put the Ender 3 V2 through its paces, I printed a few test pieces. Still looking for the best 3D printer under $300 with reliability, read Creality Ender 3 V2 review that will help you make a decision. Check out now
- Table of Contents:
Overview
Unbox & Assembly of Creality Ender 3 v2
User-Friendly Menu
Fast Bed Heating
Belt Tensioner
Ender 3 V2 Product Feature
Printing Result
Pros of Creality Ender 3D Printer
Cons of Ender 3 V2
Specification of Creality Ender 3 v2 3D printer
Conclusion
Discover 3D Printing Accessory
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Ender 3 V2 – The Easiest Guide to Leveling and Test-Printing
This code, when run, will guide you through the process of getting a near-perfect level on your Ender 3 V2’s print bed.
The goal is to be able to slide a piece of ordinary paper beneath the printer’s nozzle and the glass print bed. You want a little bit of resistance when you pull the paper: not a lot of resistance, or too little. You will be aiming to adjust the screws beneath the print bed plate until you are just barely able to feel some drag when you push/pull the sheet of paper through.
The code will move the print head to each of the print bed’s four corners, and the center, stopping at each point for you to test. Slide your sheet of paper in, use the adjustment wheels to move the plate up or down as needed (the knobs have arrows with “up” and “down” printed on them to help with this step).
Note: the code will halt the printer head at each test location. Once you have tested and adjusted at a stopping point, press down the Ender’s control knob. That will tell the code that you’re done leveling that point, so it can move onto the next.
The code will guide you through this process twice, ensuring that you have the bed level. Don’t be surprised if, when you first adjust all four corners, sliding the paper under the nozzle in the center is impossible. Just slightly adjust all four corners until there’s room to slide the paper into the middle with just a tiny bit of drag.
Ender 3 V2 | Hands-On Test & Review | Is It Worth It?
Disclosure: Links marked with * are Affiliate Links. I earn from qualifying purchases if you decide to make a purchase through these links – at no additional cost for you!
The Ender 3 V2* sets new standards for low-budget 3D printers. It is based on the extremely successful first version and brings many practical upgrades and improvements to the hard- and software.
Where the original version of the Ender 3 required a lot of tinkering, the Ender 3 V2 is a 3D printer that you can start right away. Of course, you can tinker just as much with the new version, but it’s no longer mandatory! The Ender 3 V2 comes with many upgrades that were often installed by users in the first version.
The quality, reliability and accuracy of this workhorse are outstandingly good for this price range. The Ender 3 V2 is especially recommended for beginners who do not want to invest directly in a model of the next price range such as the CR-6 SE (which has many more practical features!).
Pros & Cons
– Ender 3 V2
PRO: Heated carborundum glass plate
Low noise
X- & Y-axis belt tensioner
Color LCD display
Resume Print Function
Toolbox CON: No filament sensor
Manual print bed leveling
Filament loading sometimes frustrating
Scope of Delivery
– Ender 3 V2
Since the Ender 3 V2* is only partially pre-assembled, the package it comes in is also surprisingly small. All parts are well protected wrapped in matching foam. Even if the package is dropped or thrown once or twice during transport, nothing should happen here.
Since the 3D printer is designed for beginners, everything is included for a quick start. All the tools you need, some filament for the first test prints and a USB adapter with a MicroSD card on which test objects and other files are stored.
The scope of delivery includes the following things:
3D Printer Parts: 3D printer base with print bed Display Printhead with nozzle X and Z axes (profiles, toothed belts, screw rod, stepper motors, etc.) Extruder Filament holder Profile covers Screws
Filament (a small sample roll of PLA)
Tool: Spatula Side cutter Cable tie Needle for cleaning the nozzle Screwdriver Wrench Allen key
Replacement Nozzle
USB/MicroSD Adapter
MicroSD card: Manual Slicer and Driver Troubleshooting Guide 3D Models Video for operation
Assembly
– Ender 3 V2
Some parts of the Ender 3 V2 are pre-assembled. From my point of view, a good balance between pre-assembled and self-assembly has been found here. If too much is pre-assembled, the package gets bigger and also the price increases, because the assembly takes time.
With this 3D printer, the most complicated parts such as the print head, the extruder or the complete 3D printer base with print bed are pre-assembled. The rest you only have to screw together.
After you unpack the 3D printer, it takes about 30 to 40 minutes until you are ready for your first print.
The most complicated part of the assembly is to mount and tension the toothed belt correctly. With some other 3D printers, the X-axis is already pre-assembled and you only have to tension the toothed belt correctly. But even that is not a problem, because the instructions explain the assembly very well in words and pictures.
You need to assemble the following components one by one:
Z-axis with limit switch Z-axis stepper motor with spindle X-axis with extruder, toothed belt and printhead Toothed belt tensioner of the X-axis X-axis to Z-axis Upper frame Display Filament holder Connect cables (the cables are all marked, which eliminates the possibility of incorrect connection).
Before you turn on the 3D printer, make sure that the switch on the back of the device is set to the correct supply voltage. You can choose between 115 and 230 V, depending on which power supply you have. If you have selected the wrong voltage, the printer will smoke when you switch it on and will not work!
Print Bed Leveling
The print bed leveling of the Ender 3 V2 is done quite classically with the paper method. You adjust the distance between the nozzle and the print bed so that a normal piece of paper (with a thickness of approx. 0.1 mm) just fits between the nozzle and the print bed. If there is some friction when the paper moves, the distance is set correctly.
In this way, you set the spacing correctly in several places on the print bed. Normally you do this at the four corners of the print bed, approximately above the turn screws.
Depending on how much the print bed is misaligned, you will have to repeat this process two or three times until the correct distance is set everywhere. At the end, you can check everything again.
So much for the theory. In practice, however, you must first bring the 3D printer into its home position and then deactivate its motors.
After that, you can do the leveling as described above.
The process of print bed leveling can be quite frustrating at first, as it can take a while to find the right setting. But don’t worry, it’s all a matter of practice!
If you don’t want to bother with manual print bed leveling at all, however, you can retrofit automatic leveling. You can do this with either the BLTouch or the CRTouch. These are touch sensors that automatically detect the print bed tilt. If you want to know more about these upgrades, you can either follow the links or read the short introduction below in the Upgrade chapter.
Filament Loading
Filament loading is the biggest minus point in the operation of the Ender 3 V2! Without some practice, it is very difficult to feed the filament through the extruder to the Bowden tube.
Often, the filament goes out the side of the extruder as it misses the opening at the end of the extruder and is then deflected.
But with a little trick you can avoid this problem:
Cut the filament sharply Orient the pointed side of the filament toward the back of the 3D printer. Carefully insert the filament while opening the extruder completely.
You can preheat the 3D printer in two different modes. One for PLA (nozzle 200 °C, print bed 60 °C) and one for ABS (nozzle 240 °C, print bed 70 °C). Alternatively, you can also set the temperature manually.
Print Quality
– Ender 3 V2
The print quality of the Ender 3 V2* is good for its price range and comparable to many other hobby 3D printers. Even if you compare it to more expensive 3D printers like the Creality CR-6 SE, you can hardly see any differences in the print image.
The print quality of the Ender 3 V2 is very good with an accuracy of 0.1 mm. The layer thickness is between 0.1 and 0.4 mm. With this accuracy, not only decorative objects can be printed, but also mechanical parts.
To test the print quality in practice, I printed various test objects and also things that I actually need. For this test, I let the printer print almost continuously for a week. This allowed me to form a comprehensive picture of its capabilities.
Test prints
In my test prints, in addition to standard test objects like Benchy, I also want to try special things like different filaments and vase mode.
I have used Cura as a slicer. There is a profile there for the Ender 3 V2. For all test prints, I used the most accurate setting.
I have printed the following objects:
Test objects “cat” and “dog” on MicroSD card made of PLA*. Benchy made of ABS* with enclosure for thermal enclosure of the printer PLA storage box PETG* spinning top Boardgame material from wood filament*. Tool and filament holder out of PETG
Besides the test prints from the MicroSD Card, you can find every model on Thingiverse.
Cat & Dog
After assembling the 3D printer, the first thing I did was print the included test objects from the micro SD card. The cat printed flawlessly and the support structures were also no problem.
With the dog, I noticed that the 3D printer quickly reaches its accuracy limits with small details. But that is normal with an accuracy of 0.1 mm.
ABS Benchy
The Ender 3 V2 can also print ABS. The nozzle and the print bed can be heated to the high temperatures required for ABS.
ABS is often difficult to print because it requires a homogeneous temperature. Otherwise, warping and other printing errors occur very quickly. To get around this, I used the Creality enclosure. After that, printing with ABS was no longer a problem.
More about the enclosure below or at the link.
PLA Storage Box
To use up the leftovers of the PLA supplied, I printed this storage box. With this object, I wanted to check if the vase mode works properly and if there are layer shifting or ringing/ghosting.
None of this occurred. Only some stringing, but this could be removed with fingers.
PETG Spinning Top
PETG is also one of the filaments that the Ender 3 V2 can handle. I was able to prove this with this little toy.
Boardgame Material from Wood Filament
Filaments with additives can lead to problems with some 3D printers. For example, the nozzle may become clogged or the print bed adhesion may be suboptimal.
The printed object is quite large and has filled almost the entire width of the print bed. On the bottom side, there is quite a lot of space between the four feet which I filled with tree supports. The top side I made smooth with Cura Ironing.
The complete print went through smoothly and delivered a very impressive result!
Tool and Filament Holder out of PETG
Finally, I printed two small self-printed upgrades. A filament holder so that the filament can’t get tangled in the Z-spindle and a tool holder for spatula and side cutter.
For the tool drawer, these two parts are a bit bulky or too big and make more sense outside of the 3D printer anyway, since you’ll need them frequently.
Features
– Ender 3 V2
The Ender 3 V2* is the successor of the legendary Ender 3*. The first version revolutionized the hobby 3D printer market and is still one of the most popular low-budget 3D printers.
Creality has listened to the community with the second version of the popular 3D printer and added various practical features/upgrades.
Carborundum Glass Plate
One of those upgrades that was very popular on the Ender 3, and is now standard on the Ender 3 V2, is the Carborundum Glass Print Bed.
This glass plate heats up quickly and provides better adhesion. Another bonus of glass plates as a print bed is also the smooth first layer of the print object. In addition, the glass plate looks simply better!
The adhesion is quite good, but in my tests I often noticed that I had to use Blue Tape for certain objects.
Fast Heat Up
The removable glass print bed is heated by the metal plate underneath. Compared to other 3D printers, the heating rate is in the upper midfield.
For a good comparison and to give you an idea of how long something like this takes, I timed it for the different temperatures.
Nozzle Heat Up Time Temperature [°C] 00:15 60 00:23 80 00:30 100 00:39 120 00:52 150 01:02 170 01:14 190 01:25 210 01:39 230 01:59 250 Print Bed Heat Up Time Temperature [°C] 01:01 40 01:49 50 02:47 60 03:59 70 05:27 80 07:31 90 10:39 100
Easy Setup
Some 3D printers come completely assembled to your home. Some can be described more as a kit where you have to assemble everything. The Ender 3 V2 is somewhere in between.
Its base with power supply, mainboard, print bed and co. is already completely pre-assembled. You have to install the display, the filament holder, the Z-axes, the X-axis with extruder/printhead and the cabling yourself. You also have to install and tension the toothed belt of the X-axis yourself.
However, this all sounds more difficult than it actually is. The included instructions explain the assembly with easy-to-understand pictures and sometimes grammatically not quite perfect English.
If you’ve never assembled a 3D printer before and don’t consider yourself a tech expert, you’ll still get there quickly.
V-Slot
The metal profiles of the Ender 3 V2 have a V-slot shape. This increases stability, reduces wear and provides smoother movements.
Tool drawer
Under the printing plate and to the left of the display is a practical tool drawer. Actually, everything has room there – only the spatula and the side cutter are a bit too bulky or large for this drawer.
But since you’re going to need these two tools all the time anyway, it’s more convenient to either put them next to the 3D printer or hang them on a tool holder you printed yourself. Such small gadgets are also the perfect tests to optimize the settings.
Relatively Low Noise
The installed TMC2208 stepper drivers were also a must-have upgrade on the Ender 3. These stepper motor drivers are not only much quieter than the original drivers of the Ender 3, they also guarantee a smoother movement of the motors.
However, the built-in fans are not the best and the 3D printer reaches a total of approx. 41 dB during the printing of a PLA object (comparable to a quiet conversation).
Resume Print
Meanwhile, the resume print function is a standard feature of modern hobby 3D printers. This function saves the current print progress in case of an unexpected power failure.
Until the power returns, the Ender 3 V2 continues its operation exactly where it left off.
In some regions, this can be very valuable – especially with large objects. It’s very frustrating when you have a 10-hour print and the power goes out near the end and you have to start over. With this feature, this is not so bad anymore.
Easy Belt Tension
The X and Y toothed belts can be conveniently tensioned and released using a rotary wheel.
So you don’t have to take half the printer apart to tension the belts properly.
If you have to deal with ghosting or ringing, for example, you will have to adjust the belt tension here and there. When assembling the 3D printer, the instructions explain in detail how to set the belt tension correctly. Since you have to install the timing belt yourself, this is important.
The timing belt is properly tensioned when it makes a medium-low sound when you pull it.
Clear Menu
The menu of the Ender 3 V2 has also been revised and is now very similar to those of the other newer 3D printers from Creality. The menu is very intuitive, so you can quickly find everything with just a few clicks.
You can also make final settings in the print menu before you print. These include, for example, the temperatures of the nozzle and print bed, the print speed, the fan speed and the Z offset.
Color 4.3 inch LCD Display with Rotary Knob
The color 4.3 inch LCD display of the Ender 3 V2 guides you quickly to the settings you need with intuitive menu navigation. Unfortunately, it is not a touchscreen and is operated with a rotary knob.
However, that is not a big deal since the operation via the rotary knob is almost as fast as with the finger on a touchscreen. The display’s quality and size are absolutely sufficient.
Meanwell Power Supply
The installed power supply is a high-quality Meanwell power supply.
In addition, the power supply is now installed inside the 3D printer. This increases the user safety and the optics.
Extruder Knob
To manually push the filament through the extruder, there is a knob on the extruder. With this knob, you can push the filament either in or out (“manual feeding”). This allows you to move the filament back and forth much more sensitively than pushing it through by hand.
However, the extruder itself is quite impractical in its handling. When loading the filament, the filament is guided over a rotary wheel and should actually arrive at the opening to the Bowden tube. However, if the filament is not perfectly straight and pointed, it is simply fed out of the extruder past the rotary wheel…
With the Direct Drive Extruder Upgrade, this is of course much better solved.
Silicone Protection for Printhead
There is a silicone protector around the nozzle. This is quite handy when some filament gets tangled, as it then does not stick to the hot print head or the nozzle.
Proven Technology
A major advantage of the Ender 3 V2 over other low-budget 3D printers is the fact that it has already proven itself countless times.
Its predecessor alone is one of the best-selling 3D printers in the world. You can do very little wrong here and are unlikely to encounter any major difficulties.
Upgrades
– Ender 3 V2
Even though the Ender 3 V2 already has many upgrades built-in as standard in contrast to its predecessor, there are still upgrades that can definitely make sense.
Enclosure – Ender 3 V2
If you want to use more exotic filaments that need a constant temperature (e.g. to avoid warping), a closed build space is important.
With this enclosure or “tent”, you can ensure just that for your Ender 3 V2.
The enclosure has a layer of the aluminum inside to retain heat in the 3D printer. Another plus of this layer is that it is flame-retardant and smothers fires rather than spreading them further.
It is available in two sizes and is suitable for many 3D printers. It has several openings to operate the 3D printer and a large opening to open the complete front and top. Through the transparent front window, you can see what is happening inside.
BLTouch – Ender 3 V2
The BLTouch is a sensor that takes over the manual print bed leveling. With this upgrade, the leveling is done automatically. If you find manual leveling annoying, this upgrade is for you!
Most mid-range and high-end hobby 3D printers come with automatic print bed leveling as standard.
A touch sensor is installed at the tip of the BLTouch, which automatically detects when it is touching the print bed. With this sensor, the print head moves to several points on the print bed, usually 9, to determine the inclination over the entire surface.
The installation is done quite easily: You just have to mount it to the print head with the included mount and plug the cable to the correct slot on the mainboard. After you have tucked the cables away and flashed the correct firmware, you’re ready to go!
CRTouch – Ender 3 V2
The CRTouch* is Creality’s variant of the BLTouch. It is perfectly compatible with the Ender 3 V2.
The touch sensor is made of metal and not plastic. This makes its service life much longer than with the BLTouch.
In addition, the CRTouch does not work with a Hall sensor like the BLTouch, but with an optical sensor. This makes it much less sensitive to external electromagnetic fields. Faulty measurements are virtually impossible here.
You can see from the sensors alone that Creality did not simply copy the BLTouch, but created its very own variant. The entire design is more appealing and the device makes a high-quality impression overall.
In terms of accuracy and reliability, the CRTouch is on par with the BLTouch. If you have a compatible Creality printer, the CRTouch is definitely a recommendation!
Direct Drive – Ender 3 V2
The Bowden extruder of the Ender 3 V2 does not handle flexible filaments like TPU* very well. During printing, flexible filaments often get tangled in the extruder or on the long way to the nozzle.
With a direct drive system, you eliminate this problem because the extruder is installed directly above the print head with the nozzle.
There are many ways you can equip the Ender 3 V2 with a Direct Drive System. One of them is a DIY solution where you print certain parts yourself and then place the stepper motor, the extruder and the print head as a direct drive system.
However, there are also purchasable solutions that are less error-prone. These include various third-party constructions (example on Amazon*) or the official kit from Creality*.
The official kit contains the completely pre-assembled Direct Drive system and the necessary tools. The assembly is quite simple: in principle, you only need to replace the old extruder with the new one. This includes the disassembly of the X-axis including the toothed belt, and the rewiring of the extruder.
You can see how it all works in detail in my guide and practical test.
Cmagnet Print Bed – Ender 3 V2
The magnetic printing bed* can be removed and bent. The bending makes it very easy to remove the finished print object. In addition, the surface is created so that most filaments adhere well to it.
PEI Print Bed Film – Ender 3 V2
The flexible PEI film* guarantees excellent adhesion for various filaments. You won’t need Blue Tape or glue sticks anymore.
Tungsten Nozzle – Ender 3 V2
A tungsten nozzle* is much more durable than a normal hardened steel nozzle. It lasts much longer and you rarely have to replace it.
Especially if you use filaments with additives such as wood* or metal*, such a tungsten nozzle is particularly worthwhile.
Touchscreen – Ender 3 V2
The touchscreen* is especially worthwhile for the original Ender 3. For the Ender 3 V2, this is only a slight improvement. But if you prefer to work with a touchscreen rather than a knob, this upgrade is still worth it.
Note that you have to update the mainboard with the correct firmware before you can use the printer again.
Z-axis extension – Ender 3 V2
If the print volume in the Z-axis is a bit too small for you, you can increase it with this upgrade*. It replaces the old Z profiles and extends the print volume in the Z-axis by 100 mm.
LED Strip – Ender 3 V2
With this upgrade*, you can completely illuminate the printing area of the Ender 3 V2. The installed LEDs are white (6500 K) and consume a maximum of 5 watts.
The installation takes less than 5 minutes and the price is also very small. So if you don’t have perfect lighting in the room or use the enclosure where the 3D printer is located, this upgrade is a no-brainer.
Technical Specifications
– Ender 3 V2
DEVICE
Technology: FDM
Size: 475 x 470 x 620 mm
Weight: 7.8 kg (17.2 lbs)
Display: color 4.3 inch LCD display with rotary knob
Structure: partially pre-assembled
Power supply/voltage: 115V / 230V
Print volume: 220 x 220 x 250 mm
Extruder type: Bowden (upgrade to Direct Drive available)
Print bed leveling: Manual
Accuracy: 0.1 mm
Layer thickness: 0.1 mm
Nozzle quantity: 1
Nozzle diameter: 0.4 mm
Filament diameter: 1.75 mm
Max. Print bed temperature: 100 °C
Max. Nozzle temperature: 255 °C
Print speed: 30-60 mm/s (max. 180 mm/s)
Supported filaments: PLA, ABS, PETG, TPU
Resume Print: Yes
SOFTWARE
Slicer: Cura, Simplify3D
Connectivity: MicroSD, USB
File formats: OBJ, STL
Similar 3D Printers
Creality Ender 3 Pro
The Ender 3 Pro* is the actual predecessor of the Ender 3 V2. The printing results are more or less identical but it lacks one or two practical upgrades of the second version of the Ender 3.
Creality CR-6 SE
The CR-6 SE* is packed with useful upgrades. There are hardly any difficulties encountered during printing and its many upgrades make life easier. One highlight is definitely the automatic leveling print bed.
Creality Ender 3 Max
Based on the first version of the Ender 3, the Ender 3 Max* has a large build volume of 300 x 300 x 340 mm, a filament sensor and a glass print bed. Otherwise, it offers you the same accuracy and reliability of the Ender 3 series.
Artillery Genius
The Artillery Genius* is slightly more expensive than the Ender 3 V2. But it offers a touchscreen and a direct drive extruder system.
Ender 3 vs. Ender 3 V2
In developing the Ender 3 V2*, Creality listened carefully to the community and incorporated the most important upgrades into the new version. However, to make the price as attractive as possible for beginners, more advanced upgrades such as automatic bed leveling or a direct drive extruder have not been included in the new version.
Nevertheless, the price is lower than if you get an Ender 3 V2 than an Ender 3 V1* with all the upgrades built into the second version. Creality has optimized their manufacturing processes to reduce the price, in addition to installing the most important upgrades.
Overall, the new version is a strong improvement and recommended to every beginner!
I would only recommend the original Ender 3 if you love to tinker. If you want to install every single upgrade yourself and tinkering is your main focus and not printing, then the first version of the Ender 3 is well worth it.
Disclosure: This website is the property of Martin Lütkemeyer and is operated by Martin Lütkemeyer. Martin Lütkemeyer is a member of the Amazon Services LLC and other Affiliate Programs. These are affiliate advertising programs designed to enable websites to earn advertising revenue through advertising and linking to Amazon.com and others. Links marked with * are affiliate links.
Creality Ender-3 V2 Review
The Creality Ender-3 V2 ($319.99), an upgrade to the popular Ender-3(Opens in a new window), is an inexpensive open-frame 3D printer that comes as a kit. You’ll want to be DIY-minded to take on this build, as it takes several hours to put together. The unit we reviewed had its share of setup and operational issues, but it was worth the trouble: Most of our test prints were slightly above-par in quality. If you are new to 3D printing and want to get down to printing ASAP, you should look elsewhere. But constructing and setting up the V2 should be a fun challenge for 3D-printing newbies willing to put their time and attention into the process.
A Classic Open-Frame 3D Printer
The Ender-3 V2 measures 24.4 by 18.7 by 18.5 inches (HWD) and weighs 17 pounds. Its build area of 9.8 by 8.7 by 8.7 inches is a tad wider and deeper than the 9.8-by-8.3-by-8.3-inch build area of the Original Prusa i3 MK3S+, a much pricier open-frame model popular with 3D printing enthusiasts.
The Ender-3 V2 is very similar in design to the Prusa i3 series and is said to have been loosely modeled on it. The AnyCubic Vyper, which has a build area of 10.2 by 9.6 by 9.6 inches, also bears a similar design. The printer’s base holds the power supply and supports the carriage on which the build platform can move in and out. The base has a slot for a microSD card, as well as a micro-USB port.
(Photo: Molly Flores)
The front of the base also has a built-in tool drawer to hold the wrenches, cleaning needle, and Allen keys that come with the printer. (The Vyper has a similar tool drawer, but I couldn’t get it to close all the way.) On the back of the base, along with the on/off switch, is a voltage switch that you need to set for either 115 or 230 volts, depending on where in the world you are.
To either side of the build platform stands a semi-hollow vertical beam known as an extrusion (not to be confused with the extruder, or printing nozzle). The pair is bridged at the top by a crossbar. Another horizontal beam, which can move up and down between the extrusions by means of a vertical screw and small rubber wheels, holds the extruder, which also slides side to side. The spool holder for your filament is attached to the top crossbar, and an LCD is bolted onto the base, to the right of the build platform.
(Photo: Molly Flores)
The spool-holder dowel is held in place on the spool holder with a plastic nut, about an inch in diameter. The nut comes attached to the dowel and should unscrew from it in a manner similar to opening a child-proof cap to a pill bottle. Try as I might, though, I couldn’t get the nut to budge by hand. I ultimately had to remove it using a wrench that could open wide enough to securely grasp it. Creality’s Ender-5 Pro(Opens in a new window), which I tested concurrently with the V2, uses the same dowel-and-nut combo, but I was able to separate them on the first try, no wrench needed.
Setting Up the Ender-3 V2: Assembly Required
An important thing to realize about the Ender-3 V2 is that it comes as a kit. Creality doesn’t sell a pre-assembled version. During setup, you bolt together or otherwise connect the parts mentioned above. Building the V2 is more involved than constructing the Original Prusa Mini—for which you bolt the Y-axis assembly to the base, attach the LCD screen and spool holder, and connect some cables, and then you’re good to go. Assembling the V2 was akin to the build process for the AnyCubic Vyper, taking several hours for the basic construction and a few more in troubleshooting.
The V2 comes with all the tools you should need for assembly—although, as mentioned, I also needed to use one of my own wrenches to resolve an issue. This is not the model to get if you are looking to simply plug and print. Many closed-frame printers, as well as the pre-assembled Prusa i3 MK3S+, fit that profile, though the latter costs about three times as much as the V2.
The Ender-3 V2 includes a user manual, which is mostly a setup guide. Text is duplicated in English and Chinese throughout. It starts with front and rear diagrams of the printer, with the parts numbered. Also included are a spec sheet and a comprehensive parts list (erroneously titled “Spare Parts”), with illustrations and names for each part.
After that are the assembly instructions, replete with small diagrams, some of them a little too small for comfortable viewing. (I used a magnifier when needed.) I was baffled by one diagram that showed a correct and a wrong way of connecting a nut and bolt; only when I magnified the diagram did I see its proper orientation. Instructions in the guide are cursory; I supplemented them by watching several third-party Ender-3 V2 assembly videos.
At the back of the user manual is a diagram in the form of a flow chart. It shows the different steps in getting the printer up and running, from the cryptic “Play by memory card Seal” (which discusses different memory-card issues, such as the inability to identify files or display error codes) on through the completion of printing. The type here, too, is small and hard to read at times (though most of the steps are more comprehensible than the example I give above), and the descriptions of problems and solutions are curt. A simple list of potential problems followed by solutions would have been preferable.
(Photo: Molly Flores)
A Look at the LCD Panel
An LCD set in portrait orientation is fastened to the printer’s base. You control its non-touch screen with a knob below the screen.
(Photo: Molly Flores)
Turning it lets you cycle through the panel’s four main functions—Print, Prepare, Control, and Info—and pressing it takes you to a submenu, from which you can enter a command. From the Prepare menu, you can preheat filament (there are menu items for heating PLA and ABS) and disable the stepper motors, which allows you to manually move the extruder and build platform.
You can also “home” the extruder—bring it back to its default position—and more. From Print, you can select a file and launch a print by clicking on it.
One problem is that the filenames displayed are so truncated that it can be hard to figure them out. It is especially an issue because the names of GCODE files created in Creality’s Slicer software already have a substantial prefix, leaving fewer visible characters for the names.
Adventures in Bed Leveling
One important step with this Creality model is leveling the print bed. In many of today’s 3D printers, this process is automated, but it’s common for budget 3D printers to stick to manual bed leveling. Sometimes this can be problematic, and that was the case when I tested the XYZprinting da Vinci 1.0 Pro. Even the Editors’ Choice-winning Original Prusa Mini’s bed leveling proved wonky at first. With the Ender-3 V2 it’s a straightforward enough process, but it still can prove tricky.
Under each corner of the build plate is a knob that raises or lowers the corner depending on which way you turn it. Your goal is to see that the extruder nozzle is set at the same distance from the build plate no matter which corner you move it to. The nozzle needs to be close enough to the bed that you can slide a sheet of paper between nozzle and plate and experience a slight friction. Once you’re done with one corner you move to the next, use the knob to adjust the distance as needed, and continue with the other corners. Then you repeat the process several times until the bed is leveled—that is, when no more adjustments are needed after all four corners have been checked in a row.
(Photo: Molly Flores)
The real test, though, is in the printing. If the object you’re trying to print pulls off the bed, or if it adheres better on one side of the platform than the other, it’s still out of alignment, and so you’ll have to tweak it again. Also, even when it is set properly, the bed can lose alignment over time and have to be readjusted.
The Ender-3 V2’s Filament Scheme
The Ender-3 V2 base version comes with a small starter coil of PLA filament, though it is frequently sold bundled with one or more filament spools. The printer supports PLA, ABS, PETG, and TPU. Creality sells black, white, and gray PLA filament in 2-kilogram spools for $49.99 list price; at this writing, they were discounted to $41.99, and color PLA filament was about the same price.
For the first print, I attempted one of the test prints included on the memory card. I used a third-party PLA filament; the print came out brittle and poorly cohesive. I tried again, this time using Ender filament, but try as I could, I couldn’t get it to extrude. I expected that the extruder might be clogged, so I preheated the extruder to PLA melting temperature and took the long, very thin needle that Creality includes with the printer and poked it into the nozzle a few times. This cleared out the problem, and from then on the V2 extruded normally. In retrospect, I suspect the problem wasn’t with the filament, but that the nozzle was set a little too close to the print bed, touching it in places so that filament wouldn’t come out and causing the clog.
The Ender-3 V2 Software: A Choice of Slicers
Creality includes its own 3D printing software, Creality Slicer, on an SD card that is included with the printer. It is very similar to the Cura open-source software that is widely used in 3D printing. I used both Creality Slicer and Cura in preparing files for printing on the Ender-3 V2, and I found both easy to use. The Ender-3 V2 is not included in Cura’s pull-down menu of supported printers, but it worked fine when I chose a different Creality model, the Ender-3 Pro.
The process for each is basically the same: You load a 3D file in a format such as STL, OBJ, or 3MF. An image of the object you wish to print shows up in a visualization of the print bed. Once you click on the image, you can move, scale, rotate, and otherwise manipulate it. You can tweak settings like resolution and infill. When you press the Slice button, it maps out the layers to be printed based on your resolution (quality) and other settings, and gives you an estimated print time. You can then save the file in GCODE format to a removable drive or your hard drive.
Solid Print Quality, With Some Bumps
In testing, I printed 10 sample objects, all at the standard 200-micron resolution. Overall print quality was slightly above average. For the most part, the Ender-3 V2 did well in rendering detail, though it had some problems on the bottom side of overhangs. There were a few misprints; except in one case, they occurred at the very beginning of prints, with the first layers not adhering well and the object soon pulling off the print bed. This was corrected by re-leveling the print bed.
(Photo: Tony Hoffman)
(Photo: Tony Hoffman)
At the end of my testing, I had intended to print one final, large test object. I would start the print before I left work; when the print was completed, the extruder would cool down. To ensure the best quality, I re-leveled the print bed. But when I launched the print, it did not stick to the build plate.
(Photo: Tony Hoffman)
(Photo: Tony Hoffman)
I made several additional attempts to re-level the build plate, checking to be sure that the extruder was the proper distance from the build plate at each corner, and inserted the needle tool into the nozzle to ensure that no clog was partially obstructing the flow of molten filament, but was not able to get the first layers to properly adhere to the plate for this object despite multiple tries.
A Fun (But Perhaps Frustrating) Challenge for 3D Printing Newbies
Creality describes its Ender-3 V2 as easy to assemble and operate. On both accounts, it should be well within the capabilities of even a motivated newcomer. The V2, which should take you maybe two or three hours to build, will teach you a lot about the design and mechanics of 3D printers, and working through any problems that may arise is all part of the learning process. Provided that the print bed is properly leveled, it is easy to launch prints—created in Creality Slicer or Cura and saved to microSD card—from the printer’s LCD panel, and the results were quite pleasing, by and large.
(Photo: Molly Flores)
That said, if you’re most interested in getting up and printing quickly with a minimum of hassle, take a pass on the Ender-3 V2 and select a pre-built model like the Monoprice Mini Delta V2, a budget 3D printer that requires a minimum of setup and churned out consistently decent-quality prints in our testing. Another option is a simpler kit, namely the Original Prusa Mini. Initial Z-axis calibration on that model—making sure the extruder nozzle is the right distance from the build plate, but at just a single point—was a bit tricky. Once it was set, though, there was no need for further adjustment, and the Mini reliably produced high-quality output.
The Creality Ender-3 V2 sells at a competitive price, has a reasonably large build area, and its overall print quality proved a little above par. Because it’s a kit, just know that if you encounter any construction or setup problems, they can increase your build time considerably. But when you get the V2 running smoothly, you can use it with the pride that comes from knowing that you built it yourself. For some folks, that’s half the fun.
Creality Ender-3 V2 3.5 (Opens in a new window) See It $246.00 at Amazon (Opens in a new window) MSRP $319.99 Pros Inexpensive
Slightly above-average print quality
Good-size build area for its price
Supports several filament types View More Cons Manual print-bed leveling can be tricky
Setup instructions could be deeper, more legible
Questionable quality control on some parts The Bottom Line Hands-on tweaking defines Creality’s budget-price Ender-3 V2, an open-frame 3D printer that you build from a kit. It produces generally above-par prints, but its print bed can be tricky to keep leveled.
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